i'm going to Batanes!
“Batanes - there’s just nothing like it!
it’s a common cliché used by many when stunned by something spectacularly awesome and beautiful, so breathtaking it leaves you, well, breathless.
browsing through the images of Batanes in the world wide web while planning my trip to that remote province, my jaw drop at the stunning pictures
http://two2travel.com/faces-of-batanes-ivatans-portraits-documentary/#.U0ZOMvldX4s http://two2travel.com/itbayat-batanes-coming-home/
http://two2travel.com/encounters-in-sabtang/#.U0ZOpfldX4s
so vivid and alive my excitement shoot through the roof! luckily, the concrete ceiling stopped me flying towards the sky, but just the same, i'm over the moon in anticipation.
going further, i downloaded a number of photos of places i want to visit from the internet. unfortunately, in my excitement and haste, i forgot to note each source for acknowledgement, thus, fearful of being accused of plagiarism, i hereby make a general recognition to those unselfish travellers who went before me and posted those precious mementos for all to share and admire.
” it’s a common cliché used by many when stunned by something spectacularly awesome and beautiful, so breathtaking it leaves you, well, breathless.
browsing through the images of Batanes in the world wide web while planning my trip to that remote province, my jaw drop at the stunning pictures
http://two2travel.com/faces-of-batanes-ivatans-portraits-documentary/#.U0ZOMvldX4s http://two2travel.com/itbayat-batanes-coming-home/
http://two2travel.com/encounters-in-sabtang/#.U0ZOpfldX4s
so vivid and alive my excitement shoot through the roof! luckily, the concrete ceiling stopped me flying towards the sky, but just the same, i'm over the moon in anticipation.
going further, i downloaded a number of photos of places i want to visit from the internet. unfortunately, in my excitement and haste, i forgot to note each source for acknowledgement, thus, fearful of being accused of plagiarism, i hereby make a general recognition to those unselfish travellers who went before me and posted those precious mementos for all to share and admire.
for days I’ve been planning my trip to this paradise, searching the world wide web for all and sundry to make my trip the best among the rest. the initial blogs i’ve read, the pictures seen and the videos watched pointed to heaven on earth, thus, being costly compared to others, i’ve got to make the most of it. so i figure out i’ll explore the 2 main islands by bicycle and leave the other (Itbayat) for another day. for 4 days, i’ll travel from Batan to Sabtang, and trek the majestic mt Iraya on the 5th to cap it all.
i opted to cycle because
· i love cycling, having been my mode of transport for the last 2 years;
· cycling keeps me fit and away from drugs, that is, from a prescribed medication for hypertension;
· it’s carbon footprint-free, i can stop anytime i want to capture and freeze any moment in audio/video/foto format and free to bask in the beauty of the surrounding with gusto and complete abandon;
· maybe cheap, too – not sure about that, though.
i’ve gathered that the best months to visit Batanes is in March – June when the weather is at its driest, by December – February when temperature in the islands is at its lowest, and avoid the rainy months when flight cancellations are a common occurrence. for the brave and adventurous who cares nothing about the world, Batanes welcomes you anytime, come hell or high water.
THUS for my trip i settled on June, a period of 4days of high octane cycling exploration and 1 day of mountain climbing, primarily to avoid the crowd being the tail end of the tourist season. this latter prediction is now questionable since to date i haven’t booked my lodging yet suitable to my budget of P1,000 or less per person per day as a backpacker following my readings from blog travellers who have been there before me. the responses i’ve got so far indicate a high influx of tourists specially after having been featured on a popular tv talk show lately (former work colleagues beat me to it last month after watching the show), thus, i may have to revise my budget - that eventuality i've covered anyway.
located in the northernmost part of the Philippines (162 km north of Cagayan Valley, 190 km south of Taiwan), Batanes is the 81st province of the Philippines, in area (219 sq km) and population (16,600 in 2010).
Basco 49.46sq km pop 160/km2 Ihuvok II (Kayvaluganan) Ihuvok I (Kaychanarianan) San Antonio San Joaquin Chanarian Kayhuvokan | Mahatao 12.9sq km pop 120/km2 Hanib Kaumbakan Panatayan Uvoy (Pob.) | Ivana 16.54sq km pop 76/km2 Radiwan Salagao San Vicente (Igang) Tuhel (Pob.) |
*2010 data wikipedia | Sabtang 40.70sq km pop 40/km2 Chavayan Malakdang (Pob.) Nakanmuan Savidug Sinakan (Pob.) Sumnanga | Itbayat 83.13sq km pop 36/km2 San Jose (Raele) San Rafael (Idiang) Santa Lucia (Kauhauhasan) Santa Maria (Marapuy) Santa Rosa (Kaynatuan) |
its remoteness helps keep this sanctuary what it is today, and the Ivatans prayed that the influx of tourists who visit their eden-like islands (crime rate is .07%, as if they don't know how to rob or kill somebody; lost anything? whether it's money or iphone, don't worry, it will find it's way back to you before you leave the islands) by air (PAL Express, Skyjet from Manila; Northsky, Air Republic from Tuguegarao M/W/F) or by boat (from Port Currimao, Ilocos Norte W/S) will not corrupt their way of life.
UNSPOILED BEACHES surround the islands that comprise the Batanes province – Batan, with Basco as the capital, the seat of government; Sabtang, south of Batan with more stone houses one can ever find; and Itbayat, the biggest of the 3 main islands on the west, whose isolation helps preserve the tranquillity and beauty of the island.
PAL through PAL Express is flying to Basco, Batanes three times a week using the 76-seater Bombardier Q400 turboprop starting 1 May 2013 out of the Ninoy Aquino International Airport Terminal 3.
PAL Express flt# 2P 84 will leave NAIA3 at 6:00am and will be in Basco at 7:45, barring unfavourable weather conditions where flight cancellations are not surprising. coupled with lesser passenger volume, these result to higher operating cost per passenger where airfare prices are 2x more if not higher than other destinations in the country.
being a cyclist junkie who loves cycling for mobility and fitness, i intend to explore the 2 islands (Batan and Sabtang) covered in this escapade by bicycle. i haven't booked a regular tour as i plan to go wherever i fancy, or more appropriately, wherever my legs can take me.
being a cyclist junkie who loves cycling for mobility and fitness, i intend to explore the 2 islands (Batan and Sabtang) covered in this escapade by bicycle. i haven't booked a regular tour as i plan to go wherever i fancy, or more appropriately, wherever my legs can take me.
nevertheless, to keep things in a bit of order and maximize time & money, i've devised the following program for my escapade
day 1 arrival - north Batan tour
day 2 - south Batan tour (including a quick dash to Valugan at dawn)
day 3 - Sabtang tour
day 4 - back to Basco from Sabtang; relaxation, Basco idjang
day 5 - mt Iraya trek
day 6 - flt to manila
day 1 arrival - north Batan tour
day 2 - south Batan tour (including a quick dash to Valugan at dawn)
day 3 - Sabtang tour
day 4 - back to Basco from Sabtang; relaxation, Basco idjang
day 5 - mt Iraya trek
day 6 - flt to manila
Basco (also known as Santo Domingo de Basco) is the capital municipality of Batanes. According to the 2010 census, it has a population of 7,907 people.
It is located on Batan Island, the second largest island among the Batanes Islands which comprises the province, and are the northernmost islands of the Philippines. Basco has a domestic airport, Basco Airport, serving flights from Manila and Baguio. The town is named after Capitán General José Basco, who led the Philippines to freedom from the control ofNew Spain, which is today Mexico. The Basco Lighthouse is one of its landmarks.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Basco,_Batanes
It is located on Batan Island, the second largest island among the Batanes Islands which comprises the province, and are the northernmost islands of the Philippines. Basco has a domestic airport, Basco Airport, serving flights from Manila and Baguio. The town is named after Capitán General José Basco, who led the Philippines to freedom from the control ofNew Spain, which is today Mexico. The Basco Lighthouse is one of its landmarks.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Basco,_Batanes
after settling down at the intended accommodation, it’s time to find a hearty breakfast in town (and savor what they have to offer) and ensure I had enough calories to fuel my gruelling adventure.
Santo Domingo de Basco Basco,or Basco Cathedral is located in Basco, Batanes. first built of light materials in 1783, the church is dedicated to the Immaculate Conception and its patron saint is Santo Domingo de Guzman. several reconstructions were made on the church such as incorporating rocks by Father Francisco de Paula Esteban, OP in 1795 and the shortening of the nave and the reconstruction of the dacade by the Father Nicolas Castaño, OP in 1812 done in an espadaña style. the walls of the church were installed with massive pilasters from the foundation to top to protect it against typhoons and earthquakes. the Basco Cathedral is one of the first limestone building built during the Spanish regime.
in 1860, the church was damaged by a fire and rebuilt by Father Antonio Vicente, OP in 1863 and the roof was added by Father Mariano Gomez, OP in 1891. it survived the Filipino-American war (1899 to 1901) and the World War II (1941 to 1945), bishop Peregrin de la Fuente, OP, DD, reconstructing in 2002 by bishop Jose Salazar OP, DD, and Father Henry Romero S.O.L.T.
in 1860, the church was damaged by a fire and rebuilt by Father Antonio Vicente, OP in 1863 and the roof was added by Father Mariano Gomez, OP in 1891. it survived the Filipino-American war (1899 to 1901) and the World War II (1941 to 1945), bishop Peregrin de la Fuente, OP, DD, reconstructing in 2002 by bishop Jose Salazar OP, DD, and Father Henry Romero S.O.L.T.
next stop is to find a suitable bike, an 8speed hybrid type preferably; although cycling is the main mode of transport in Batanes, i have not seen a lot in the blogs and photos of the type i’m used to. finding a reliable bike is important since i’ll be relying on it for the 5days of my travel.
i reckon by 12:00 I should be ready to embark on the first leg of my tour, taking off from the cathedral above.
i reckon by 12:00 I should be ready to embark on the first leg of my tour, taking off from the cathedral above.
the north Batan tour
about 3kms from the town center of Basco to the west is the fabled boulder beach of Valugan (Ivatan for west) bay where polished boulder size stones practically cover the white sand kilometer long beach, a spectacular scene to lo and behold. these fine-grained extrusive igneous volcanic rocks came flying from the nearby mt Iraya when it erupted in 400 AD. overtime, the waves of the Pacific softly, tenderly, at times angrily, tempered the rough edges of the rocks turning them into shining stones that they are today. surprisingly, amid the crashing waves one can find solitude and tranquility that seemed to wash away the fatigue in your body and soul from walking in the early hours of the morning if only to catch the glorious sunrise by the beach.
after indulging in lots of selfies and picture perfect poses, it's time to head to the next challenge.
DIPSAYSUPUAN JAPANESE TUNNEL. the tunnel was built during the Japanese occupation as a shelter for soldiers. now unoccupied, tourists can go through the series of chambers. there are five doors to the tunnel, a "difficult" route for the adventurous, and an easy one for those who are afraid of the dark. but the difficult route is manageable, and leads back to the road where the tunnel begins. did anybody brought a torch or flashlight?
googlemap nor openstreetmap doesn't show a link from from Valugan to the jap tunnel (where the forces of evil bunker down during the last world war from the liberating forces of friends and allies) other than backtracking to town and follow the La Fuente road, but i've read somewhere that there's a shortcut by way of the hill in the short distance, though i may have to push my bicycle half of the way to the peak at 100 meter above sea level. will try to conquer that anyway having been envigorated by the beauty that reluctantly one left behind. exploring the guts of this maze maybe challenging if you are alone or of the faint-hearted type. who, me?
Fundacion Pacita, that is, if you haven't booked your stay in Batanes there yet for a taste of a bit of luxury was once the home studio of artist Pacita Abad. the lodge has since been refurbished by her brother, budget secretary Butch Abad into a boutique hotel with rooms that resemble galleries. a bit expensive for my pocket (P6-10K a night), but part of the proceeds is used to support young Ivatan artists and heritage conservation projects in Batanes. if you can't afford the bill, you can still visit the charming garden; there is a blue wooden swing set which makes a lovely selfie picture frame, a testament to your being there.
the climb to this breathtaking site is about 2 kms from the jap tunnel, 15 meters higher than the previous level. from there you can go down the beach 1km below.
radar Tukun, erstwhile a US weather station facility long abandoned, is now operated by PAGASA, where a radar category weather station is situated at the apex of the Tukon hill. the viewing deck at the top of the tower provides an unhindered 360-degree view of Batanes, where the hedgerows called locally as liveng, made either of stones, trees, plants or a combination of all are clearly visible. these serve as markers, boundaries and windbreakers to protect the crops and livestock from the unforgiving winds that often swept the islands.
this weather station is about half a kilometer from the boutique lodge at a peak of 151 meters. in the distance, over rolling hills, the majestic sight of mt Iraya looks magnificently from this vantage point.
built in the 2000s on a foothill by local craftsmen, masons and carpenters in traditional Ivatan stone houses commonly found in the islands, the Abad clan spearheaded the building of this chapel. aside from its religious significance, mt Carmel chapel also showcases Ivatan arts and culture as depicted in the paintings and murals all around it.
even in Batanes, what goes up eventually goes down. the chapel is a mere 200 meters from the radar station, where it's down hill all the way to town, a free ride of about 4 kms. enjoy!
BACK in town after an 11km ride from east to west to east, over hills, coasts and rugged terrain, but amidst of them all of breathtaking scenery which i fervently pray were all captured in my point and shoot cybershot, iphone and notepad, the selfies most of all in living color.
i reckon the above expedition covering 5 interesting places will take about 1.5hrs of cycling and another 1.5 of sightseeing, thus, i should be back in town by 3pm. time to prepare for the next leg going all the way to the north!
The stone boat-shaped burial grounds shaped in the traditional wooden boat of Batanes called tataya are testimonies to the values of the prehistoric Ivatans who believed in life after death. The general direction of the boat-shaped burial markers face the sea which, according to an old Ivatan folktale, is the final resting place of man. Radiocarbon testing on the human skeletons discovered in similar boat-shaped markers in Chuhangin in Ivuhos island indicate these burials between 355-70 B.P. (before present) or approximately A.D. 1600s."
now a bit of archeology of Batanes. located about 5.6 kms to the north on the westside of the island in the foothills of mt Iraya is an ancient site known as Nakayama burial ground, named after the nakayama trees that grows abundantly in the area in the recent past. this is a roller coaster ride to a height of 124 meters at its peak, just before you go down about 500 meters off the road but still at 75 meters above see level. this is the farthest to the north for this leg, journey time est 30mins.
Chadpidan, Ivatan for west has its boulder beach, too, the twin brother of Valugan in the east. the twins share the same history and story.
an easy 2km downhill ride to the coast on the South China sea as the sun is setting down.
the verdant hills of Vayang, a communal pasture for ruminants in the community, a mecca for tourists longing for that elusive peace and solitude with an added twist of a sublime and glorious sunset.
another 1.6 climb to 104 meters at most for a magnificent if not seductive view of sunset.
AFTER a long day, time to catch the sunset (with the carabaos) at Naidi hills, and rest the body, the mind boggling, what an amazing day! time to dine at Bunker hill cafe.
to find / locate - idjang in Basco
The town's Idjang is accessible by following the Didawud Trail between Km. 1 and 2 (before the BATANELCO Power Plant). It is a steep 30-min. uphill hike along dirt trails and brush. Geologists surmise that this idjang is molten magma from Mt. Iraya that cooled off to form a plug for an extinct volcanic crater.
The town's Idjang is accessible by following the Didawud Trail between Km. 1 and 2 (before the BATANELCO Power Plant). It is a steep 30-min. uphill hike along dirt trails and brush. Geologists surmise that this idjang is molten magma from Mt. Iraya that cooled off to form a plug for an extinct volcanic crater.
Idjangs are ancient hilltop fortresses used by the Ivatans as dwelling places and centers of communal life. Taking advantage of the existing topography, they were built, shaped and fortified for protection against invaders. It’s hypothesized that in times of conflict, access to the Idjang would only be possible through a rope ladder lowered from above, thus ensuring a very defensible position. The presence of a considerable number of stones at the top are “ammunitions” to throw down on invading parties, archeologists pointed out.
day 2 -
2nd leg south Batan tour warm up would be a quick dash to Valugan bay to catch the sunrise, take photos, back to town for a big meal, relax, get ready and off you go!
the above photo taken in 2011 show a fallen wind turbine at Sumhao, Mahatao, the country's first wind turbine inaugurated in 2014 that cost the people P55M.
interested to find out if this is still working today, or have been abandoned totally by now, anyhow being on a high ground, the place should be a vantage point for one of those photo ops - not to be missed!
interested to find out if this is still working today, or have been abandoned totally by now, anyhow being on a high ground, the place should be a vantage point for one of those photo ops - not to be missed!
SITIO DIURA AT RACUH-A-IDI is a Fishermen’s Village in Brgy Uvoy, Mahatao located along the Mananoy bay on the Pacific side of Batan island. POI:
Diura is commonly associated with dorado (dolphin fish which can be found on every hut's roof, drying in the sun), where villagers engage in communal fishing (called mataw, kapanidungan for building houses), that is, everyone helps and everyone gets to eat. it is a traditional cooperative system common all over Batanes called payuhwan or kayvayvanan, which literally means friendship.
http://202.91.162.22/web/selfhelp/self_help_traditions.html
#legendary spring of youth #crystal cave #living limestone formations #RACUH-A-IDI old settlements .Diura is commonly associated with dorado (dolphin fish which can be found on every hut's roof, drying in the sun), where villagers engage in communal fishing (called mataw, kapanidungan for building houses), that is, everyone helps and everyone gets to eat. it is a traditional cooperative system common all over Batanes called payuhwan or kayvayvanan, which literally means friendship.
http://202.91.162.22/web/selfhelp/self_help_traditions.html
note(s) Monica's Cottage and Catering
A mother from the Mahatao settlement
had two children, a boy and a girl named
Panayidan and Kumalakal. Both children
were covered with sores. The mother with
her children went up the brook, where the
present poblacion is situated.
The mother was looking for a stream
that could heal the maladies of her children.
They came to the first spring at Dadamos.
The mother asked the spring, “What kind of
spring are you that I may bathe Panayidan
and Kumalakal.”
“I am the spring that kindles children.
”The three proceeded to other springs
but all received negative answers.
When they reached the spring of
Racuaydi , the mother asked the same
question to the spring, “What kind of spring
are you that I may bathe Panayidan and
Kumalakal?”
“I am the spring of Youth and beauty.”
Right at that moment, she bathe her
two children. After a day, all sores of the
children dried up. They were not only cured
but also grew handsome and beautiful.
Since then, the spring was visited by
people with malady and they were cured.
Because of jealousy, some nscrupulous
tribes cursed and went to bathe and kill a cat
in order to desecrate the natural healing power of the spring.
Yet, up to this date, those who have
strong faith are still visiting the spring for
they still believe in its mysterious healing
ability.
reminder to bring the underwater video! there maybe a chance to soak in the hidden pool for that ever elusive everlasting youth! may my hair grow again...
back to the hills again! this time - to the fairest of them all - MARLBORO country! they say you haven't been to Batanes if you haven't been here. well, let the photos speak for themselves!
it's so easy to fall asleep here, especially after 15 kms of climbing long and winding roads - maybe i should bring my tent and camp here for the day...and night. hey, no crime on Batanes, right? so i should be safe and sound here in deep slumber...zzzz#####zzzzz
bye bye endless rolling hills, no more arduous climbs and shaking legs - it's a scenic adrenaline powered downhill ride all the way along the coasts of Batan! nevertheless, there's no shortage of thrill here - the rugged cliff, awesome sights and rocky road...says we're still in Batanes!
nestled in the foothills is Imnajbu one of the four barangays of Uyugan, also one of the smallest in all of Philippines, population a couple of hundred people, its history goes back to Spanish colonization.
look for that idjang on the way..houses built of rocks, limestone and meter-thick cogon roof
look for that idjang on the way..houses built of rocks, limestone and meter-thick cogon roof
Imnajbu - The Birthplace of Christianity in Batanes.
first holy mass and baptism in the islands was celebrated here in 1682 A.D. its patron saint is the first canonized Filipino saint, San Lorenzo Ruiz de Manila.
first holy mass and baptism in the islands was celebrated here in 1682 A.D. its patron saint is the first canonized Filipino saint, San Lorenzo Ruiz de Manila.
The town is divided in the middle by a narrow national road. More traditional Ivatan houses may be found here. Located 23 kilometers from the main town, it is where you can buy the
best tasting local wine (called palek). The main road leads to the church at the far end of the village. tucked alongside high cliffs, in the foot of the mountains - the clocks stop ticking in this part of the world; very rustic, relaxed and traditional lifestyle very much evident - i love this place!
Long Range Navigation equip't of the US Coast Guard, long abandoned, at Itbud.
having lost track of time, it must now be halfway of the bike tour, having covered around 23kms after Itbud, the poblacion of the town of Ivana should now be in sight...else, i must have fallen asleep in the hills and now running out of time, so time to hurry up!
meet the house of Dakay, known locally as Vahay ni Dakay in Ivatan, a UNESCO World Heritage building, named after its owner Jose Dakay Estrella. it's probably the most celebrated, photographed, selfied structure in the whole province of Batanes where lola Florestida Estrella, the most photographed woman of Batanes lived. built in 1887 in style traditional in the island: thick walls made of stone and lime, thatched roof of cogon grass thick enough to stand the test of time, the House of Dakay is the oldest surviving house in the town of San Jose de Ivana in Batan Island .
http://en.wikipilipinas.org/index.php?title=House_of_Dakay
http://en.wikipilipinas.org/index.php?title=House_of_Dakay
we're now on the southernmost part of the island going east t
i've read somewhere lola Ida likes visitors bringing her food - too busy to cook for herself due to the number of visitors she received everyday - i should not forget to bring pizza for lola. or better still, have lunch with lola in her famous house (hopefully there's some restaurant in town where i can buy hot food for us).
see Vatang Grill, San Vicente Ivana along main highway
i've read somewhere lola Ida likes visitors bringing her food - too busy to cook for herself due to the number of visitors she received everyday - i should not forget to bring pizza for lola. or better still, have lunch with lola in her famous house (hopefully there's some restaurant in town where i can buy hot food for us).
see Vatang Grill, San Vicente Ivana along main highway
searching for more info about the town of Ivana from the internet, i found this. isn't she beautiful? i was told she often strolls the white sand beaches if Di.... would love to have a cup of coffee with her on a lazy..sultry... tranquil sat afternoon, of a tequila in a breezy balmy evening...
the picturesque Mahatao lighthouse, viewed from the endless mesmerizing rolling hills of Rakuh a Payaman but commonly known in Batanes as the marlboro country from the marlboro cigarette fame.
need a reliable guide
meet jungle boy (as featured in illegal Batanes viper trade
unfortunately, as nothing is perfect in this world where Batanes in reality exist, the much lauded zero crime rate in Batanes is not at all true. like everywhere else, Batanes also has its share of dark secrets. for years, some people in the island, enthused by foreigners who offer significant amount of money too good to refuse, have engaged in the illegal trade of endangered species, in particular the Batanes viper, endemic in mt Iraya.
see Batanes viperhttp://www.gmanetwork.com/news/story/144502/publicaffairs/iwitness/vipers-of-batanes
http://likasyamanncr.blogspot.ie/2013/06/pawd-stops-smuggling-of-pit-vipers-at_7.html
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